Last leg to Marathon

      We dragged up the anchor in Faber Cove, Ft. Pierce and got underway in nice conditions. Fort Pierce Inlet was slow due to the incoming current but the ocean was calm with a long, slow swell. Comfortable. An easy day ended anchored in Lake Worth, Palm Beach, FL. 

     In order to get to the Miami area in  daylight we got up at 0400 to head back out to sea. Lake Worth Inlet is an all-weather, all hour waterway. Wide and well lit. And we've been in and out in the dark here several times. Heading out was easy and the sea was mostly calm. Started out with seas of 4 to 6. Inches, that is. Then they went down to ripples from there. The only issue was in calm conditions powerboat wakes can travel for miles. Wind driven waves knock down wakes but we got quite a few big ones from boats that had long passed out of sight. We ended up in No Name Harbor on Key Biscayne. It's Baggs State Park and where Carol went for the first swim of the 'season'. A tiring 11 hour day but it got us past Fort Lauderdale and the boat show congestion (FLIBS). 

     When we get to Key Biscayne we feel that we are finally in the 'Keys' even though Key Biscayne is really Miami. The park is 'the Keys', the rest is Miami. When we leave there to head south in Biscayne Bay we are 'in the Keys'. Clear water. A clean scent in the air. Feels like home. The passage is a bit tiring as it is a long day to Upper Matecumbe Key (Islamorada) where we anchor for our last night southbound. The gap between good anchoring spots for us make it a short day or a long day and we choose to go further and end our day between 3 and 4 o'clock. About 8 hours. Not too bad. A cleansing swim in clear, shallow, almost warm water let me find and cut some fishing line caught in a saildrive zinc. We may have a hull/saildrive rubber seal issue to deal with in Marathon. Nothing crucial, just an annoyance. Another one. Our night at anchor got a little rough as the winds got up near 20kts. Made for 1ft. waves and noise. There were also professional fireworks on shore for some reason. And after 10 o'clock, too. Kinda late. Oh, well. The winds eased about 0400 as forecast and we got underway at our usual time. The water in Hawk Channel was calmer than forecast. Lighter winds. Nice 1-2ft seas on the stern. Not a bad last day. Warm. Sunny. NE breeze. Would be a nice all-winter forecast. Not likely.

     We arrived at the Boot Key Harbor City Marina in Marathon, FL. about noon. Our earliest arrival day by a few days and we got the smallest number mooring ball we ever had, too. C-1. Probably the closest we've ever been to the dinghy docks. 

     Because we arrived earlier than usual it seemed a little quiet. It will get busy in the next few weeks. Activities will ramp up. 

     Let's sum up this year's cruise south: It went fairly well. Fairly easy. Our first couple of days in Long Island Sound were mostly rough. Then our passages off New Jersey were nice and smooth. So were our days in the Chesapeake Bay before our haul-out. Our time in Annapolis was nasty due to the remnants of hurricane Ian but once we started south again it was nice. We had one extra day in Oriental for rain and thunderstorms but even that was brief and we still got some walks and shopping in. Dining out, too. That was it for lay days until Ft. Pierce where we stopped for an extra night to visit friends. Our offshore passage off South Carolina and Georgia was a snap as were our hops off the coast of Florida. All that added up to no delays and our early arrival to Marathon. Now we have to hope no late season tropical weather gets us. 

Autographing my Points East article. Not quite sure if they were yanking my chain in requesting the autograph. 2nd time ever for a request. Weird. 

  

Offshore and to Ft. Pierce

      We left Charleston at first light. Sunrise wasn't until we were in the shipping channel headed out past Fort Sumpter.

 It was almost totally calm and not quite as cold as it had been. The forecast was for near calm at Chucktown with a north or northwest breeze and 2ft seas in Florida waters. That is pretty much what happened. Go figure. At times the sea was glassy with a very small, gentle swell. At other times there were ripples on the water. The breeze picked up as we neared the St. Marys channel, at first on the beam, and then later on the stern. St. Marys Inlet is the border of Georgia and Florida. The seas were up to 2ft but because they were behind us we were quite comfortable. 

     During the first day we had 3 different large pods of dolphin come to us and play in our bow wave. Stern wave, too. The ocean was so clear we could see down into the depths and it seemed the dolphin were swimming in air. We've had this happen a few times over the years but it is still amazing to see. The thrill hasn't faded. 

      I don't know if this dolphin video will play for you. 

We ended up in St. Augustine as planned after 27 hours at sea and got a city marina mooring. The seas entering the channel were a workout for the arms but at 2ft we were not uncomfortable. We caught up on some of our sleep, showered ashore and did some shopping in the tourist traps. We also went out to dinner at A1A restaurant out on their balcony. Even though it was 70°, it got a bit chilly. Good food, however. 

      The next morning we got underway about 20 minutes later than usual because the sun is getting up later and later. We had an easy time dealing with the bascule bridges and the George Musson was nice enough to hold the opening a couple of minutes so we could get through there without a 30 minute wait. They do not have to do that but some tenders are nice enough to help the boaters out if possible. We appreciate it when they do. A couple of the fixed bridges were very low (okay the water was high) and we had to crawl under them. We made it without hitting anything. We stopped for fuel at Daytona Beach. It was the most we have ever paid. Over $400 for 78 gallons. Highest rate we have ever paid, too. Ft. Pierce will be only a dime cheaper per gallon but we won't take on as much. Sigh. 

     So we anchored at New Smyrna at a wide spot in the road. I left some kidney stones and half my prostate here 6 or 7 years ago. The anchorage was a bit rough due to the wind and the wakes from passing-by local weekend boaters. Both were forecast to fade overnight and did. 

     Crepuscular rays at sunrise at New Smyrna. 

     Departure from New Smyrna was problematic. Our windlass woes got worse. Sounds like a gear issue on retrieve and an electrical issue on lowering. Makes no sense. Not going to be fun the last stretch to Marathon. We went down to Eau Gallie and anchored around Dragon Pt. This is just north of Melbourne and a regular spot for us. This passage seems long when it is nice out like it has been recently and endless when it's dismal as it has been a few times in the past. Our nice weather stretch was forecast to continue. Going to Fort Pierce was tricky because the water was very high at several of the bridges. We barely made it under the Wabasso and the 2 Vero Beach bridges. It was a very close call but we made it. The fact that we are finally into 80° weather made it better.  After a stop at the City Marina for fuel we crossed the ICW to anchor in Faber Cove, Ft. Pierce. This is a favorite spot but while we were here we observed a boater dinghying back from someone's personal dock after trespassing through their yard. Those are people who end up ruining it for the rest of us. Powerboaters. From the midwest. Sigh. 

     We will stay in Ft. Pierce 2 nights, visit old friends, and then head out on our last segments to Marathon. The weather forecast is great so we will probably inlet hop... go offshore each day and come in each night. Next posting will be from our winter home. 

Great Bridge and beyond

      We left Great Bridge very early, about an hour earlier than normal. Being a holiday, the Centerville Turnpike Swing bridge did not have the opening restriction until 0830. Went through it by 0725. I had to call the bridgetender to convince her it was a Federal Holiday and that they should be opening on request. It wasn't until we were through that I told her the holiday was my birthday. #70.

      We sighted multiple eagles along the way. Other raptors, too. It was very, very cold but calm. 

     As mentioned in the previous post, we got the new Covid booster while in Great Bridge and of course, I got very sick the next day. Chills, fever, sore eyes, sore shoulder. I'm used to it. Happens every time. Still sucks. 

     We ended up in a usual anchorage in Broad Creek, just before Albemarle Sound. We were between Shiloh, NC and Jarvisburg, NC. We did not get the bug swarm Carol feared. A transient in Great Bridge said they got them 2 or 3 weeks ago. All dead, I guess. Cold snap was good for something. The Albemarle Sound crossing was uneventful. Light breeze behind us. It isn't always this nice. Blue skies but cool. Warming up! Basically uneventful all the way to Belhaven, NC. I bumped the bottom of the Alligator-Pungo Canal when I squeezed to the side to give room to a northbound barge. I guess that's an event. No big deal. We went aground in the same spot 10 years ago. Not this time. Our passage on the Neuse/Pamlico waters was also uneventful. Not quite calm but light 1ft seas were mostly astern. We ended up in Oriental, NC at a free town dock. We got there early enough to get a spot as we watched the live camera feed on the internet as we were travelling on the Neuse River to be sure there was space for us. Of course someone scooted in after my last check of the feed just before we entered the harbor. They were just there to get coffee at the shop across the street but it forced us to switch our tie-up side at the last moment. An annoyance but no big deal. We planned to stay 2 nights due to forecast thunderstorms. 

     There is a slightly strange theme in Oriental. They have dragon eggs, okay painted rocks, all around the area. On our walks we sighted at least 6. Then there is the actual dragon. No, not the one painted on the bench. 

   

 The town is named for the sign board from the wreckage of a ship lost near Cape Hatteras in the early 19th century and found by the then newly appointed postmaster's wife. Yes, she found the name board along the outer coast 25 miles away and suggested the name of the town be changed to match it. Not strange at all. This is likely the origin of the oriental dragon themes that abound here. 

     Anyway, after one partly rainy day, we got underway again. Our passage to Camp LeJeune, the Marine Corp base, was a little cooler and a lot cloudier than forecast. We had good current most of the way so, in spite of a fuel stop, we made good time. Our trip from Camp LeJeune, Mile Hammock basin, was nice. Great weather, with blue skies, if a little cool to start. Our passage through the New River inlet area was taken slow because it is shallow and difficult to navigate but we did okay. It's been dredged (ongoing) but it's still an adventure. We just barely made the 1100 Figure Eight Island swing bridge opening but, having done so, the Wrightsville Beach bridge 1200 opening was easy to make. We got a municipal mooring at Carolina Beach again for one night. At $20/night, the cost is reasonable. We sat out weather and did some exploring here this past spring. Not this time. We departed Carolina Beach slightly later than normal to try and time the currents. It worked reasonably well. The Cape Fear River had ripples building to 6". Nice. The current when rejoining the ICW at Southport was good and stayed mostly good all day. Lockwoods Folly only caused minor agita and Shallotte Inlet was a breeze. We anchored at Calabash Creek just into SC once again. Our trip through the Myrtle Beach ICW area after that was slow due to adverse current most of the day. Started off wearing short pants but with a sweatshirt and it warmed up from there. We stopped at Wacca Wache Marina for fuel and then went right into nearby Cow House Creek where our anchor winch failed. I thought it was the down switch but after investigation apparently it's not. The relay clicks but does not engage. The 'up' function works, however. Strange. Still investigating/guessing. Our passage down the Waccamaw River was swift and smooth. Winyah Bay had small waves behind us so that was comfortable, too. Once back in the ICW at the Estherville-Minim Canal we passed by our usual anchorage at Minim Creek because it was very early in the day and a new-to-us anchorage at the South Santee River would get us closer to Charleston for the next day. We got a few repairs done including getting the windlass working properly. No great genius of mechanical ability was involved. I have no idea why the relay was kicking in correctly. Or why it stopped previously. A future problem coming I suspect. I reconnected the wires I had snipped while testing it the day before. Boating is fun. Anyway, the South Santee anchorage is exposed to the wind and has a lot of current but conditions were benign and posed no problems. 

     When we got underway for Charleston it was very, very cold. Not quite freezing but with the breeze... brrr. Wore many layers. The shallows of McClellanville were less worrisome because we anchored 45 minutes closer to it in the South Santee. We beat the low tide. By just a little. Once again, for the 2nd year in a row, we anchored in the Ashley River where we used to regularly stop years ago. It was a 'fly off and work' stop for Carol. Not a great anchorage due to wind and current. Not a great place to be alone like I used to be. Great city, however. We haven't visited it in a while. 

     We are going to head offshore from here. Small weather window again. Remember, this past spring didn't work out so well. Supposed to be nice here and a bit south but northern Florida may not be so great. We shall see. 

     The next posting will be from Florida, maybe Marathon. Uh, if we survive. Funny, we never used to question that. 

     

South from Annapolis

      Our time in Annapolis was a bit damp. Hurricane Ian was a long way off to the southwest when we got there but we still got outer bands which gave us a lot of rain and wind. Near gale winds. Our first night was the worst of it but our anchorage spot in Spa Creek had a good enough holding bottom and wind protection so we stayed secured. Then Ian dissipated and was absorbed into a strong cold front. This caused more rain and wind. Very slightly less wind but just as much rain. More than 4 days and 5 nights worth of rain. The weather radar showed the swirling rotational pattern of a hurricane but it wasn't even considered subtropical. It certainly wasn't warm. Brrr. 

     At least our first walk to the pharmacy in Eastport was pretty.

    

We got a couple of brief breaks in the rain and got to a bakery, the drug store (twice) and the water dock at Truxtum Park. Then, after 5 nights, we left. In some rain. And wind. At least we got our needed meds but not our needed vaccinations. Re-scheduled those for our next multi-day stop in Great Bridge. Oh, well. 

     Our trip to Solomons was in Small Craft Advisory (SCA) conditions but the rain was mostly passed. The wind and seas were behind us so we were not all that uncomfortable. Not bad at all. Mostly 2ft but 4ft seas happened at some points. The Solomons anchorage areas were mostly full with transient boats which was a little unusual. They may have stayed in port due to the weather we had been out in. Also, perhaps like us, cruisers are not gathering at the 'too late in the month this year' boat show and are already on the road south. Luckily there are many areas to anchor so no problems. 

     Finally we got back to cruising mode, up early and 8 hour days. We went south to Deltaville, VA, crossing the mouth of the Potomac River in 1 ft. following seas. Conditions eventually became totally calm and we anchored in a usual spot in Jackson Creek. After a beautiful and calm night we headed out in near calm conditions which eventually became almost 6 inch seas. A breeze developed on the nose which caused the wavelets. It was also a day of adverse currents which became awful as we went into Hampton Roads. Our time enroute was 90 minutes longer than our average passage time due to the current. We went into the High Street Basin in Portsmouth to dock but there was no room due to local small boats taking up space. They do not stay overnight so the space becomes available eventually. Just not when someone could use it. We went back a short way to anchor off the Portsmouth Naval Hospital. We've been there many times and it's okay but not great. Holding ground is only fair, crab pot floats abound and it is exposed to ICW and commercial traffic wakes. Pretty 'though. The Hospital is on the near shore and the battleship Wisconsin is across the river. Exteriors for the TV show NCIS were filmed nearby. Whoop-de-do. In the morning we picked up the anchor earlier than we used to because it was Saturday and the Gilmerton Lift Bridge was not restricted as to opening times. When we got there a very large barge wanted to come through the bridge northbound and the waiting vessels squoze to the sides of the channel. This let us go through first southbound as we were the only boat positioned properly after the barge passed. It didn't really matter as we have to wait for the schedule at the Great Bridge Lock anyway. The lock was full and the boats were slow going in and out but we made it through for the 10am Great Bridge bascule bridge opening. Our planned fuel stop at AYB was delayed by other boats so we tied up at the free dock on the opposite side of the ICW briefly. We then untied and went to the fuel dock, filled up and then went back to the free dock for two nights. This is one of our favorite ICW stops. Free dockage. Groceries close. Pharmacies, restaurants, a museum, a library and walking trails are also features. What else could one want? Did I mention the free dockage? 

     We went up the mast to remove some equipment to allow us to get under some bridges on the ICW, got a couple of vaccinations each, picked up more meds, got groceries, did some routine and minor maintenance and then got underway to continue south. 

     Next posting may be from our home in Marathon. Maybe sooner. Who knows?