Coinjock

     We are now in Coinjock, NC. It's a little town that, for us, is two small marinas on the ICW. It's only 50 miles from the start of the ICW in Norfolk, VA.

     We have had a rough time since we left Charleston. The first day was fine but the passage up towards the NC-SC border was very slow because we were always against the current. It seems even though there wasn't much snow this winter the hills are draining the rain and snow falls into the waterways to the ocean. All that water was coming right at us.

     We had to stop short of our plans at a small marina in Myrtle Beach because it was getting dark AND we wanted to watch the UConn women's basketball Final Four game. The promised wi-fi at the marina was on the fritz so the owner drove us to a restaurant where we could watch the game on TV. Unfortunately we lost and the $120 we spent on the marina, food and cab home was wasted. Oh well. Next year.

     After that stop we went to a new-to-us anchorage a little west of Southport, NC. Pipeline Canal. Another long day to get there because of adverse current. Then we went up the Cape Fear River v-e-r-y slowly against the current and along the Carolina Beach and Wrightsville Beach areas. We ended up at Camp LeJeune very late in the evening. It was our longest passage time-wise on the ICW. Underway 12 hours. To make matters worse the Marines were up until 11pm flying their Osprey aircraft just a few hundred yards away from us practicing VTOL and air support. Very noisy! Can't complain though. The Marines own the anchorage and we civilians are lucky if and when we can use it. The long day made up most of the time lost the previous 2 days due to current.

     We had another decent day going past Morehead City and Beaufort (Bo-fert) to Cedar Creek. Things went downhill after that.

     The Neuse River was our next passage and it was awful. Strong wind and current on the nose. No sailing. A two hour passage took us more than five hours. Four miserable hours. This was followed by the Pungo River which was okay, but only by comparison. It was not quite miserable. Just rough. We ended up at Belhaven to buy some very expensive fuel. We kept tripping out the breakers on their fuel pump. Ended up burning out their electrical circuits so they loaned us a golf cart to drive more than a mile on main roads to a gas station. Scary. But the fuel was cheaper there.

     From Belhaven it wasn't too bad as we were mostly in canals, protected from winds and seas. Of course we managed to go aground three times. Once for me, twice for Carol. When we reached the Alligator River things went crazy! Extremely rough water and wind on the nose. For the first time ever  we turned around and headed BACK to shelter three hours before our normal anchoring time.

     In the morning it seemed better and we headed back to the open water portion of the Alligator River. It WAS better but not by much. Instead of 4 foot seas it was only 1-2 ft. After five hours we got to Albemarle Sound. We had hoped to be able to sail but the wind direction failed us again! Two hours of awful followed by one hour of not too awful. A ten hour day got us to here in Coinjock.

     We will cross into Virginia tomorrow and we'll see if we get back to Chesapeake Bay in the next two days. Better weather coming... or so they say.

Charleston. Again

     We are back in Charleston again. Northbound. Last year we just stopped for one night but this year we have to stay for two and a half weeks. Carol has to go off to work.

     We are about two weeks ahead of the time we arrived last year but after the work stop we will be back on plan for a mid-May arrival to our home waters. Two weeks is a long time in the spring. The cruisers are mostly still well south of us and the warm weather is there, too. We've had some days since Fort Pierce that started off in the very low 50s. Yuck.

     From Ft. Pierce we had mostly good days, stopping at some off our usual places for overnight anchoring. Eau Gallie, New Smyrna, Saint Augustine and just over the border of our home waters (according to the insurance company), the St John's River. The last stop in Florida is where the weather took a turn for the worse. Very windy with thunder-storms for three days.

     We spent two nights in St. Auggie expecting to meet up with friends there but it all fell through. Still, we saw a re-enactment of the preparations for a battle between the Spanish (heros) and English (pirates) in the 1600s. BTW: the English won.

     From the St John's we had a very rough trip to a new stop, St. Mary's, Georgia. It's just over the Florida border and is a cute tourist town. It's mostly a base for the Cumberland Island National Park which is about seven miles away. Having our own boat we anchored off of the island and explored some of the park. Beautiful. We had some very up-close encounters with the wild horses we only saw from a distance last year when going by here. We latched onto a tour to learn about the history of the island and then did our own hiking. The beach is amazing.

     The other interesting things are once into Georgia we started getting the gnats we met last year (awful) and also started hearing the spring birds we used to hear when we were in Connecticut in the early spring (nice). Farther south we mostly see sea birds like pelicans, cranes, gulls, etc. Not much in the way of singing birds.

     We stopped at a couple of obscure anchorages in Georgia then in Thunderbolt (near Savannah) and Beaufort. From there a quick jaunt to Charleston.

     Other observations... we are seeing a lot more dolphin this year and when we were leaving Hilton Head I saw a pair of Bald Eagles. Carol couldn't be bothered to get up to look at them. We're getting too jaded. Okay, maybe the cat sleeping on her was a factor.

Bahamas and Back Again

     We are back in Florida (Fort Pierce) again. We cut our time in the Bahamas a little short (by about 10 days) because we are having trouble with our batteries holding a charge.

     We were at some remote locations and not getting an engine started could be a disaster. We struggled to get started one day at Man-O-War Cay which is a populated island but even that would have been a bad situation expense and service skills wise.

     We started our cruise at Old Bahama Bay Marina after crossing the Gulf Stream. From there we went to Great Sale Cay. That's an uninhabited island with some decent wind protection. Nowhere to go ashore and nothing to see except dense mangrove. Next stop was Strangers Cay. Even more isolated. We did not see a boat or any people for more that two days. Crystal clear water. Electric colors. Stunningly beautiful. Got on the island easily to walk the Atlantic side and Sea of Abaco side beaches. Swimming, bathing, re-enacting a movie scene, all fun activities.

     After two nights there we went to Allens-Pensacola Cay. Two cays joined by a hurricane 10 or 20 years ago. Also uninhabited but plenty of people on boats around. At least 6. This island features a covered platform the natives occasionally use for shelter when they are on a fishing trip. There is also a sign tree. This is where cruisers hang signs or other stuff with their vessels name, crew, date there info, etc. We didn't contribute to the litter.

     Next stop... Green Turtle Cay. Civilization. Big city. Okay, may be 200 people. But it had shops and groceries and museums and more. All crammed into an area about the size of a Wal-Mart. Friendly people, too.

     From here we went over to Manjack Cay. This island has a good number of private homes owned by foreign nationals. Mostly from the US or Canada. But other countries were represented. Very friendly people who let cruisers wander their trails. A couple of them also host a party on the beach every full moon. Cruisers bring food, drink and musical instruments and the party goes on. A good time for all.

     Then onto Great Guana Cay after a passage through the 'Whale'. To get into the Hub of Abaco you have to briefly go out into the Atlantic. These passes are subject to 'Rages' that can make them impassable and very dangerous. Like crossing the 'Stream' you have to wait for the proper window. Guana Cay is a small island that has one famous spot. Nippers. A beach bar overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Very popular. It was very nice but I'm not really into bars no matter how nice the location.

     Only one night there due to incoming weather so we went to Marsh Harbor. That's a large but totally protected harbor. Third most populatd area in the Bahamas. It has lots of choices for groceries and booze and parties. We stayed there for four days as a nasty storm blew. Met some people we knew previously and also made new friends. Other than that, not much to recommend. Too big to be friendly or personal.

     Next stop was Man-O-War Cay. A nice mix of natives and foreigners with two protected harbors. Here our battery problems got worse and we were lucky to get an engine started. This made us consider our options. The weather forecast four days away was not looking good. We decided to cut short our trip. We headed back to Green Turtle. Then to Great Sale (a very long trip) and from there, a very, very very, long trip across the Stream to Fort Pierce, FL.

     This was not as easy as our passage to the Bahamas but not awful. Middle two or three hours, while in the Gulf Stream) were a little bouncy but, again, not terrible or dangerous.

     Now were back  in the US to spend big bucks on 9 batteries. Big bucks but maybe a third of what it would have cost in the Bahamas. Here is an example: Diesel price in Marathon, a high price area: about $4 a gallon. Diesel price in the Bahamas: about $6 a gallon. In the US we paid as little as $3.50 and as much as $3.90.

     So this cruise was a 'check it out' crusie. Learned a lot for future trips over there. May be next year we'll skip the Florida Keys and spend more time in the Bahamian Cays. By the way... Keys and Cays are pronounced the same way. Go figure.

Bahamas

     Wow! We are in the Bahamas!

     After much worrying about the passage from Key Biscayne to West End, Grand Bahama Island we had an easy passage. The worry was whether we should go because the weather window was so small. The wind shifted to the NE much earlier than forecast but it was so light it did not kick up seas in the Gulf Stream. Of course small seas is nice. No wind isn't. But, we are used to motoring. I do not like going on deck to raise the mainsail at night in open ocean. Chicken or prudent? Not sure.
Going around Cape Florida from No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne, FL at midnight was an adventure but after that it was easy going.

     The wind, when it came up, was from the NE and it brought some showers but it wasn't too bad. We couldn't sail into the wind because.... sailboats don't do that. Even if we were good sailors.

     The Old Bahama Bay Marina where we cleared Customs is a fancy resort. Expensive but a nice place to relax one night before moving on. The blue of the water is just stunning. We have been in the Virgin Islands as well as the Florida Keys and the Galapagos Islands so we know the comparisons.

     Next stop: Great Sale Key and then the rest of the Abacos.

Departing Marathon

     It's been five weeks of great weather in Marathon but we're ready to leave, at last. We had two days of 60 degree weather and two HOURS of daytime rain. Otherwise mostly perfect. 70s and several 80 degree days.

     The only bummer has been the repeated failure of our generator. $1800. in October that lasted 2 1/2 months. $1000. in January that lasted two DAYS. Grrrr. We received a new generator from the company for free but installation and wiring and monitoring upgrades cost us an additional $1300. Ouch! We're hoping we will not have further failures.

     Since Carol was done with her working/travelling interval we've been doing maintenance, restocking and touring. We've been out to Pigeon Key by way of the Old Seven Mile Bridge a couple of times. Lots of sealife in the water below the old bridge and during an openhouse on Pigeon Key I saw the underneath structure of the original railroad supports and a number of exhibits with wildlife including sea turtles, a gator, a croc, several snakes and a lionfish.

     We are headed up to Miami tomorrow to wait there for a weather window to cross the Gulf Stream and explore the Abacos, part of the Bahamas. Excited, nervous but, we think, prepared. It's about a 60nm trip and we've been about that far offshore before but crossing the Stream can be an adventure. We don't like adventures.

   We'll be somewhat out of touch because phone and email is expensive so only contact us if it's urgent. We'll have use of our phone but it will be off when not in use.

Marathon

     We've been in Marathon about a week now. Christmas has just passed and the weather has been phenomenal!

     But...

     The first Norther went through last night and it's cooler now. It was a weak one so the daytime temps have dropped from the high 70s to high 60s. Until today the nighttime low temps have been about 75. Awesome. BTW: a Norther is a winter cold front in Florida. Or the Bahamas.

     The Bahamas is our next, but at this point only hoped for, destination. We are planning but know a weather window for crossing the Gulf Stream may never happen safely. Should happen but there have been years one didn't. The current weather pattern had strong easterly winds but this first norther may change all that and set up a winter weather cycle that gives some crossing windows nearly weekly. We'll see.

     Heather arrived here the day after we did (20th) and is staying until the day before New Year's Eve. Unlike last year she caught great weather while here. We have been doing a lot of biking and dinghying looking for wildlife. Interesting creatures sighted, including 5 foot lizards. The other wildlife sighted was in Key West. We took the bus down to there for shopping and weirdo watching. Not many weirdos this year but we did see a few 6 foot Tarpon waiting for a tourist to fall into the water.

      So far the only breakdown is the failure again of our generator. It's been producing electricity, heating and cooling since October but has suddenly quit putting out enough electrons. Grrrrrr

In the Keys

     We're in the Florida Keys again. Just barely.

     At Dinner Key, across from Key Biscayne, just down from Virginia Key. Keys, right? Welllll, more like Miami.
    
In the Florida Keys technically, maybe. But really at a real big city. In fact as I write this we're in a hotel in the city. Not even on the boat. We left the boat on a mooring and came to a Hampton Inn to watch the UConn women's basketball team play Baylor.

     This feels weird. Leaving the boat, and Cleo, and going to a hotel!

     How did we get here?

     We stayed about three weeks in Fort Pierce visiting with Mike and Carol and resupplying the boat. Oh, and Carol went off to work for a week and a half to get us the money that keeps me in the lifestyle I've become accustomed to.

     Thanks M & C Guay for the use of the car, the meals and the friendship!

     While in Ft Pierce we saw our first manatee and the first blue-bottle of the season, too. Blue-bottle? Portuguese Man-of-War jellyfish. Potentially fatal if encounterd while swimming. Especially if as big as this one.

     Anchored off the City Marina wasn't too comfortable most days, this season. Very persistant easterly winds made for a little discomfort. Not terrible, just a little uncomfortable. Those winds also meant we were not going outside to sail from there south. Motored from Ft Pierce to Lake Worth (Palm Beach) on the ICW. An hour of bridge delays make for a long day. From there we went offshore to Fort Lauderdale. The wind had died and the seas were down but the current was against us. We had to get very close to shore to get any speed over the ground. The last hour gave us some sailing wind and a little bit of favorable current. We anchored in Lake Sylvia, Ft Lauderdale. A very nice spot but a little crowded this time.

     From Lauderdale we have to go outside to Miami. They got away with building a 56 foot bridge over the ICW in Miami instead of the required 65 feet. We need every inch of those 65 feet. The conditions were forecast to be pretty rough but we started early when there was no wind. When the breeze and seas came up they were behind us and we had no troubles. 8.8 knots was our highest clocked speed over the ground. We only realized how rough it was when we turned for the Miami channel and the seas were on our beam. 20 minutes. Not hard to take. Government Cut, Dodge Island bypass and back to the ICW and starting down the Keys. Again, just barely.

     Tomorrow we head for Marathon. Probably stopping around Key Largo the first night and trying for Marathon the second. Weather permitting. Forecast again is not too great. Easterlies. If they keep up, the Bahamas passage may be in jeopardy. Of course, patterns can change in the month or so until our hoped for departure.

Photo from last years visit to the Turtle Hospital in Marathon.